Makes 20 sticks

Ingredients:

1 pound boneless, skinless cod or 1 pound (about 4 fillets) grey sole
2 cups panko (Japanese coarse bread crumbs)
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 orange or lime, zest finely grated
2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus for seasoning
3 large eggs, beaten
Vegetable oil
Salt and pepper
1 lemon, cut into wedges

Set a rack on a baking sheet, put it in the oven, and preheat to 200 degrees F.
Cut each fillet into 1-inch strips. Toss the panko, flour, zest and salt in a shallow bowl or pie plate. Pour the eggs in another. Heat about 1/4-inch oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Season the fish all over with salt and pepper, dip in the eggs, and then press into the panko mixture to coat evenly, shaking off any excess. Carefully place the fish in the hot oil, taking care not to crowd the pan. Adjust the heat, as necessary, to maintain a constant sizzle. Fry the fish, turning once, until evenly brown, about 2 to 3 minutes total. Transfer to paper towels to absorb excess oil, and, if necessary, keep warm in the oven on the rack. Repeat with the rest of the fish. Serve hot with lemon wedges and your favorite dipping sauce.